Botswana weekend on the bikes- still good to be alive!

It is winter in the Southern Hemisphere. And my wife went to visit her sister in Ireland, on Turkish Airlines… missing the attack at Istanbul with just 6 days…

On the way to the airport 9 days ago my phone started buzzing. My friend knows how I was not looking forward to this 3 week period without my wife. His first suggestion was that we should go visit Katse Dam in Lesotho on our motorbikes. But Lesotho in winter is really, really cold!   After dropping off my wife at the OR Tambo Airport, I went and stayed over at his place in Kempton Park. And then, over a bottle of good red wine,  the idea was developed a bit further on. If Lesotho is that cold, how about a trip through Botswana instead? You see- I have a virgin passport, that were badly in need of a stamp to pop it’s cherry.

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So we decided, and sent word through our Whatsapp group of friends. And soon enough the owners of 6 bikes decided it sounds like fun, why not? Three of them will also bring their wives along.  On Thursday evening, the 30th of June, three of us stayed over at one of our friends’ guest house. If you ever need a good place to stay over in Lichtenburg, South Africa, Sundown Guesthouse is your destination…  The owner really wanted to come with us, but then found that his passport has expired…  but we had such a good evening together in Lichtenburgh.

The next morning another two friends joined us, and four bikes departed, going over the border with a painless experience (not that usual in Southern Africa!) We waited in Lobatse for the other two bikes, completing our group. We then went onwards to the capital, Gaborone.

And here our friends booked a delightful Backpackers Lodge called Mokolodi.  This is a very good place to stay over when visiting Gaborone, just  a few kilometers outside the city in a very quiet and peaceful neighborhood.

IMG-20160703-WA0012We pitched our tents, and then went exploring the capital. One thing that always amazes me about Botswana is the way this country is developing and growing. The new business district is something to behold- such vibrant and imaginative new buildings going up. Botswana means business.

We returned, and pitched our tents.

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Photo: Mavis

Preparing for a cold night in the African winter. But as we Africans do… the cold did not bother us at all. We braai’ed. Barbequed. And enjoying a night together around the camp fire, under the African starry sky. And as always it went along with good story telling, and some liquid beverages consumed…

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Photo: Mavis

It was a cold night in a tent, as I was laying alone in the dark… but African Winters tend to be cold… The next morning my friend  caught me exiting my very small tent…

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Photo: Philip

On Saturday we rode from Gaborone up on the main highway of Botswana, up to Mahalapye. This part of Botswana is really flat, and not with such marvelous wildlife as you get up beyond Nata. Here you ride just to ride, and be with friends. We were very well pleased with the petrol price in Botswana- refined in South Africa but not nearly so much taxed as in our country.  We had a good rest stop in the Wimpy at Mahalapye, and then turned east towards the Martins Drift border post.  Here we were again reminded how grumpy and unfriendly South African border staff can be. We have much to learn from the way Botswana operates…

We headed to the very, very small town of Marken, where we stayed over at the local pastor’s farm. We pitched our tents under a beautiful old tree (Marula?) 20160702_164217.jpg

 

And then we had another lovely evening under the stars, around the camp fire… man, winter is bad in South Africa… 🙂

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This camping was very basic, but with hot showers provided by a “Donkey”- a fire heated geyser. There was no mobile phone reception, just us under the starry sky, underneath the Southern Cross. And around the camp fire we told stories, shared some experiences, addressed some whiskey, and shared some more of life’s wisdom.

It is for such experiences of the shared passion of motorbikes, friendship, nature, our faith, and the camp fire burning under a starry sky, that we live. And yes, my friends made the 3 long weeks without my wife much more bearable!

PS. So Sorry I rode so slowly through Botswana- I really just know of some people having received huge speed fines in very remote places, and I can’t do the time, so I did not do the crime… 🙂

 

Botswana trip- Up to the Chobe river at Kasane

It really is spectacular seeing the elephants in the wild north of Nata in Botswana. On our third day on the bikes we rode from Nata up to Kasane, on the Botswana side of the Chobe river. This is a very popular tourist destination for all kinds of adventure tourists- we bikers, those who like to do it in built-up SUV’s with rooftoptents and jerrycans on top. Also a lot of international tourists roam here with hired campervans.

We did not book our accommodation in advance, preferring to discover and explore as we went along. So we had a slight problem- all the camping sites were fully booked, At nearly sunset the good people at Thebe River Camp decided to help us, and gave us a remote corner of their resort to pitch our tents.

I picked up a stomach bug on this day, and were feeling bad for two days. At sunset, when our tents were pitched, I went to bed. We have payed for two days at Kasane, and also booked a Chobe River Sunset Cruise for the following afternoon. I first had to find a doctor to get some relief, and then we went on a three hour sunset cruise.

If this was not on your Bucket List, it should be! While feeling extremely miserable physically, it was still one of the greatest experiences of my life on that big pontoon on the Chobe river, I think I shall spread the photos of this three hours over a few posts… so here are some of them…

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Botswana- where the elephants are…

I will post another quick one tonight, before I head off to bed. I am really tired- we did complete about 4000 of our intended 5000 km trip- that is 80%, a passing rate I would think…

When you ride up on the eastern side of Botswana, it really gets to be fun on a motorbike on the other side of Nata. Soon after Nata you begin to see road signs that I have never seen before…  Beware of the Elephants… one of those in your part of the world?

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And soon enough we saw some obedient elephants, just doing their elephanty things next to and onto the road…

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This is some amazing riding- in Botswana north of Nata up to Kasane… This is still wild Africa. Remember that when you ride here. I heard from our truck driver (story still to come, be patient!) of the time he saved a lady’s life, when she approached a pride of lions and they started chewing on her leg…  Wild animals in Africa still can kill you today as sure as your caveman ancestors millenia ago… Don’t think Lion King and Dumbo the flying elephant if you are in Africa- think Jaws… being eaten alive… and take care… heed the signs…

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I have to go back to the city to fetch and repair my bike, so I am not sure when exactly I will be posting again. But something special is coming up when I tell you about the Chobe river experience…

Finally- our Botswana/Namibia Tour- Part 1

The last few weeks and even months have been quite hectic, as we were busy planning the tour of a lifetime, doing a few more Bucket List items.

I have bought my yellow BMW R 1150 GS with this tour in mind. And as I do not have metal pannier boxes on board, it was a huge challenge to think how me, my wife and all our luggage including a tent, bedding, cooking utensils, clothes etc,,, will be carried on board.

We planned, bought, modified, packed, rethought, repacked…

In the last few weeks I had the bike serviced- checking everything… except… we will come to that. I had a new front tyre fitted. And then, on Saturday 27 June 2015 it all came together.

The others of the group came from Nelspruit, Kempton Park and Edenvale, and gathered at my house. After we fed them some delicious hamburgers, we departed on our journey.

The first day was relatively short for me- only 165 km to Ellisras, where we stayed over for free at a friend’s church. The first leg of the journey was not without incident- my wife decided to take her iPad along, and it just jumped out of her backpack and commited suicide onto the tarmac, 30 k’s from home. If anybody want to donate a usable 1Pad, it will really make her smile again!

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Our bike packed just before departure. Man, it was HEAVY!

When we arrived at Ellisras, we went out for a meal. And at the meal Johan and Magda surprised us with this beautiful sweaters they have designed for us.

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On the Sunday morning we got going very early, to be at the Groblers Brug/ Martins Drift Border Crossing when it opened at 08h00. We had a smooth border crossing, and then drove on through Botswana, up to Palapye, where we had a late morning brunch at the local Wimpy. Here we experienced again that service in Africa can be very, very SLOW…

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After going on through Francistown, we took the road up north to Nata.  Yes, I know Nata Lodge is great! But we stayed over at Nata Bird Sanctuary, 3 km’s before you get to Nata Lodge. It was much more primitive, But maybe much more fitting of an African Overland Expedition…

I really love how my wife has adapted to the biking trip, enjoying it a lot!

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Yes, it was very basic…. but a good experience! And I think that is enough for today…

There is a sadness in my heart writing this. The rest of the tour is still continuing, finishing tomorrow. But my bike broke down at the border post between Namibia and Botswana.  But that is another story… Still to come,

TEDx- Which country does the most good for the world- my version

Barefoot Medical Student  (what an excellent Freshly Pressed awarded Blog!) introduced me to the wonderful world of TED. And one of the favorite talks there is Simon Anholt’s talk on the country doing the most good for the world…  For a transcript see here…

Excellent talk, Simon! Thanks! Been to Ireland, have an Irish Sister in Law, love the place and it’s people… but  I don’t think that it is the Most Good Country…

Here is my earthquake inducing answer to the question, dear Simon, with my reasons…

The best country in the world, doing the most good for the world is… no, not the USA.  Or China or Russia. Especially not South Africa, Julius Malema singlehandedly sunk our chances for that one… If you do not know Julius Malema, thank God and move on…

Zapiro is an AMAZING cartoonist in South Africa, hated by the politicians, and loved by the rest of us good people… http://www.africancrisis.org/Article.php?ID=65289&

 

 

The Best Country in the whole wide world, doing the most good for the world, is… BOTSWANA!

Only about 160 km from my home, to the west of us.

Why on earth Botswana? Here are some reasons to convince you all beyond a reasonable doubt…

  •  Botswana never gave us Paris Hilton or Justin Beeber.
  • Botswana does not have an atomic bomb, or program.
  •  Botswana has less people in the whole population than the US Military
  •  Botswana produces a lot of engagement ring diamonds at the Jwaneng mine…. let’s talk about love. baby…
  • Botswana does not overfish the oceans, the oceans are too far away…
  • Botswana has beautiful sunsets, and great evenings around the tribal fire underneath the most amazing starry skies…
  • Botswana has a firm hand on crime, not like our country where the criminals now run the country.
  • Botswana does have some of the best wildlife to go and visit, the Okavango Delta is a must see…
  • Botswana does not steal farms from their farmers.
  •  Botswana still have elephants roaming wild and free in the north, just below the Chobe and Zambesi rivers.
  •  Petrol (Gasoline)  is much cheaper in Botswana than in South Africa where they buy it in the first place…
  •  There are no toll gates in Botswana
  • Botswana does not declare war on their neighbors.
  •  Botswana does not have Jacob Zuma for a President, and is not ruled by the ANC…
  •  Botswana does quite well in educating their people, and taking care of their health…
  •  There are more donkeys than people in Botswana- and no, Google did not kill one of them
  •  Botswana did not cause the world economy to fall.
  • Botswana’s secret service never made it into a movie.
  •  Their border posts are much cleaner and more effective than South Africa’s!
  •  Botswana will most certainly not cause World War III…
  •  There is no oil in Botswana, so no OPEC membership either.
  •  Botswana is much bigger than Ireland.
  •  A Tswana on a donkey drives much faster than an Irishman in a car going through Taum…
  •  Wikipedia says Botswana also shares Pap and Boerewors  in an enamel plate with us South Africans as some of the world’s best cuisine…

 

Negatives: