The 2 Decade Bucket List item done and dusted… barely…


Bucket List Item #6– To complete 21 Cape Town Cycle Tours- formerly known by us as “The Argus”…  a 109 km race around Table Mountain.

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I must confess, like my blogging these past 3 months, my training program went sadly lacking… I did train. But not nearly enough. I also tried something new. Instead of my usual February midday training sessions (summer here, remember…) I trained at night in front of my television set. Doing a few Sufferfest training sessions- really good training material!

But so, last Sunday, 6 March, the day dawned on my 21st race…

And for once it was a nearly perfect day! Last year’s race had to be shortened a lot because of Table Mountain burning, and all the soot in the air threatening our lungs.  In previous races the Southeasterly wind blew a lot- one year up to 12o km/h. But this year- blue skies, no wind, no smoke… perfect!

I knew from the start that I have committed the grave sin of undertraining. I went slowly up Hospital hills, and then suffered a LOT up the 2 km of Edinburgh Drive…  I did manage to ride to the top of this hellish climb. Then, on the Blue Route I felt as if this day just might be survivable… managing speeds of up to 72 km/h on the slight downhills.

At the Naval Base of Simonstown I started feeling quite poorly. A slight wind was now blowing from the front, and the heat picked up a bit. On through Millers Point and over Smitswinkel Bay I felt some strain. But when you reach halfway, there is a long slight downhill, with the wind in your back. That part was really good. On through the beautiful and spooky Scarborough and onwards to Noordhoek I pedalled. But then it started to heat up quite a lot (according to me…)

At the base of the beautiful Chapman’s Peak Drive is a lovely place called Noordhoek Farm Village. For the first time ever I stopped there. Went to their restaurant, and ordered a cup of filter coffee. I was seriously contemplating abandoning the race, as I just felt drained. After the cup of coffee I soldiered on towards Chappies. But I knew I was in trouble. I had a hard time breathing, and my heart rate monitor showed that I was above maximum heart rate- 220 minus your age. At about halfway up Chapmans Peak drive I had to pull over. And then, with the heat and the heartrate going through the roof, I had to walk the last km of Chappies- it felt like a walk of shame! Over the top, I made time up- it is a good 4-5 km of downhill, sweeping turns, dodging slower cyclistts- as a motorcyclist I am really good at downhill riding! But then- the dreaded Suikerbossie Drive in Hout Bay. First a 1 km climb, coming back down again, and then a 2 km steep incline.  As I entered the smaller Suikerbossie my legs just loced up solid in a cramp. I could barely manage to turn my ankle to get my shoe out of the pedal. Some spectators helped me to the sidewalk, and I had to lay down in the shade till the cramps subsided. And then I had to walk the 2 km up again to the top of Suikerbossie…

In order to qualify for a medal, you have to finish the race under 7 hours. As I walked up to Suikerbossie’s top, I realised that I had already used up 6 1/2 hours. To get to the finish line from here is usually more than half an hour for me… Was all the suffering going to be a total waste of time?  Still cramping, I got on my bicycle, and started chasing the clock to be in time for my medal. And it was bad! It is a beautiful stretch of road, going past Llundudno, and the 12 Apostles Hotel, and then through Campsbay, Clifton, Bantry Bay, onwards to the finish line at the Greenpoint Stadion. Most of it is downhill. And a lot of riders, having had a better ride than me, slow down just to enjoy the scenery. But me, cramping a lot and in pain, tried my best to reach the cutoff time.

When I finally passed the finish line I looked at my watch. I have made it, but with only minutes to spare… my worst time ever, including the 120 km/h wind race a few years back. But it counted! At this time I was really in pain. I had to go to an Info tent to go and claim my special 21 st medal. And then, feeling the strain, I went and booked myself into the medical tent. I was feeling dizzy and very thirsty. The medical staff took over, tested my pulse, and blood pressure. My pulse kept on racing at 12o, where I usually go back quickly to 65/70. The other problem was when my blood sugar levels were tested, it was up at 11.3. I have never been diabetic, but in the struggle to finish I have taken on too much sports drinks…

But I had my medal. It has taken 21 years to get this medal.

I might still be the slowest cyclist in my home town. I may not always look like an athlete.

But: I have a 21 Cycle Tours medal. And from next year I am riding with the Argus’ sought after  Blue Number, being a member of Club 21.

I really doubted that I would finish this year’s race. But maybe Winston Churchill was right when he said: “Never, never, never, never, never give up…”





Bucket List Item #38: Shark Cage Diving

This morning at 06h00 my daughter and I reported at the Blue Wilderness at Rocky Bay on the Kwa Zulu Natal South Coast of South Africa.


I was in serious need of some adrenaline in my life. Time to do a Bucket List Item… number 38 was possible… And so we decided to go feed ourselves to the sharks.


Photos by Blue Wilderness

There was a cage available, but we decided to be brave and swim outside the cage…

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I think the wetsuit makes me look fat.. 🙂


That hairy skinny legs outside the cage are mine..

And then the SHARKS started arriving…



Fortunately only Black tip Reef Sharks today…

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But they are beautiful, and very curious about us hanging around in their world…


This was really an amazing morning in my life, spending some quality time with my daughter, and enjoying nature…

I felt sorry for a few of the sharks… the one still swims around with a very expensive Rapala lure dangling from her mouth.  Some of the other sharks has evidence of broken jaws, being caught and then the hooks got taken out very brutally.  The one positive- they were released after being caught.

I really enjoyed this experience, and now I would love to start saving for the next level- doing a scuba course…

Still breathing… barely


Hi dear friends… So I have been quiet for a while… a few months to be precise…

I always wanted my blog to be a place with a positive vibe, good news and so. So I developed a huge writer’s block.

It was a hard year for me with my eldest son working in the USA. But he has safely returned last week. The US of A has been good to him, and he really enjoyed it a lot. He thinks the people of Gregory, South Dakota are some of the friendliest people around. He was based in Hendricks, Minnesota. The Combined Harvestingvteam travelled through to Texas, Colorado, Montana, both Dakotas and over to Saskatchwan in Canada. He has seen a lot that his father would also love to see one day.  He returned to South Africa, and promptly left for Mozambique again last Friday- week ago, with his girlfriend and her family. His sister also worked until now, and her firm closed for the Christmas holidays.

The rest of the family is at Scottburg just south of Durban. We are having a good time in the Indian Ocean, swimming and suntanning. I also am planning to make a bucket list item a reality, to go shark cage diving if weather permits on Saturday. My eldest 2 children will probably join us in 2 days’ time to celebrate Christmas together.

Why I was so silent on my blog: the situation in South Africa is really getting me down. We have a very expensive clown for a president, and he and his cronies are really ruining our beautiful country. Even the New York Times says so…

In South Africa, if you are white and think the ANC is ruining the country, you must be a racist and longing for the old apartheid days. And that is really getting me down. No, I do not long for old days of racial discrimination. But I am fed up with the corruption and the way our President treats the country as his personal piggy bank. I do not long back to good old days, I look forward to a day in the future where everybody will really be treated as equals, and that I will never have to fill my race in on a form again. South Africa is in real deep… trouble. And while I still have the freedom to say that, I will.

So we are going to enjoy this seaside holiday, I think 2016 is going to be a very difficult year in our country…  we need a good rest before the next struggle starts.

So for all readers who celebrate Christmas, may it be a good time of peace. And for all the rest, may you also experience peace in these troubled times!

Day 12- When our Tour ended prematurely…

Our Motorcycle Tour was moving along so nicely! When we left Windhoek on that morning, we still had four days of riding ahead of us. Or so we thought.

Our planning looked like this:

Total Route

From Windhoek we had to go to the Border post of Buitepos (Outpost in Afrikaans) where we would camp before crossing back into Botswana.

Windhoek Buitepos

And that morning we left with a song in our heart. It was a beautiful day, and such lovely riding out of Windhoek, pass the International Airport on the road towards Gobabis.

On this morning we made a dream of my wife’s come true. We actually stopped a long time at one of the rest stops, took out all the equipment to brew a fresh cup of coffee alongside the road…


It was just another long, straight road ahead…


And so we went along, stopping in Gobabis for lunch, and then riding on to the Eastgate Campsite, 100 meters in front of the Border to Botswana, And there our hearts broke. We paid for our campsite, and started to take off the luggage.  In a short while I noticed some oil flowing from my bike’s drive shaft. We took off the back wheel, and saw that the seal keeping in the oil was completely gone. I asked some advice on facebook and the Wild Dog Forum of Adventure Motorcycling. But there was not a lot we could do where we were…

The other 3 bikes had to continue the journey the next morning, and we felt really heartbroken. Some options included that some people of Gobabis could come and fetch us, and order a new seal. We also made contact with one of Namibia’s trucking companies, which have lorries running empty to South Africa. But they could not say when the next lorry would be passing here. The passenger busroutes to South Africa do not pass here.

That evening I was really worried, not knowing how to get my wife and my broken bike back home.

The next morning three trucks of Absolute Logistics stopped at the shop, to buy some food before crossing the border. Someone of our group asked if they could help us, and they phoned their head office in Windhoek. They got the green light, and so we had to quickly get the bike, and all our luggage aboard… it took some muscle to get my bike onto the lorry!

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And so, after a lot of worries, my wife and I were on two different lorries, going on to Pretoria. We had to ride in separate lorries,as each could only take one passenger. We left Buitepos at half past 8 the morning, and had a long, long day in the lorries, driving at 80 km/h through Botswana. That evening at midnight we arrived in Pretoria, where our young colleague came and picked us up.

I went to fetch my bike the Monday morning, at Absolute Logistics’ depot in Boksburg near the International Airport. 20150713_104308

I took it to Dream Adventure Motorcycles in Pretoria. Mark there opened up the Drive Shaft, and saw what happened. The main bearing has disintegrated. In the process it took out the crown gears, and damaged the whole housing.

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It is two weeks later. It took a while to get a secondhand Final Drive to fix my bike with. I only got a part yesterday, and some time in this week my bike will hopefully be fixed again. So our tour ended three days early!

The others drove on from Buitepos to Kang in the centre of the Trans Kalahari Highway.

Buitepos Kang

They did this route without incident. If you ride this route, be very sure where you will find fuel, there is only about 1 fuel stop on this route!

That evening we arrived back home at half past 2 in the morning. The rest slept peacefully in Kang. The next day would be such a huge day. We were scheduled to drive on to a friend’s Guesthouse in Lichtenburg, South Africa. There we would stay over in luxury, indoors, with huge beds and hot baths…

Kang Lichtenburg

But on this day, the rest of the group also ran into trouble. Johan’s bike had a huge problem. The back shock absorber disintegrated completely near Kanye, Botswana. They also had to abandon the tour, and load their bike into a Furniture Removal Van passing by. At the same time Francois had a huge puncture, he needed to borrow Johan’s rear tyre to complete the tour. Only Richard’s bike completed the tour unscathed…

And only two of the bikes made it to Lichtenburg and the Guest House we were all looking forward to.

Our tour ended early. But there is still so much to be thankful for. No one of us got hurt in the process. Both my bike and Johan’s bike’s failures could be extremely dangerous and life threatening, but we got off in one piece…

We did complete 80 % of the planned route, and we did see some amazing sights along the route. We had some amaing friends riding along, and that made it such good memories to treasure.

So that is the end of this ride report. Thank you for travelling along!

Day 10 and 11- Windhoek

We had such a good time in Swakopmund! I really love this place. But then it was time to start heading home. We assembled at the oceanside to take a few last photos, and to say goodbye to the Atlantic Ocean…

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Richard grabbed a dustbin, and put his iPhone on a small tripod to take our official Tour Photo here…

11701032_10153196851318071_4874538822240479063_nFrom left to right: Elaine and Richard, me and Annelie, Francois and Andrea, Magda and Johan.

The sky was clear and blue, unlike the foggy Sunday morning the day before. But when we started the journey back inland, we had a really hard ride ahead of us. This region experiences what they call the “Oosweer”, Easterly Weather, when the hot winds blow from the inland to the ocean. It can become sandstorms, sandblasting everything in its way. We missed the sandblasting part, but from Swakopmund to Aranos I just could not go any faster than 110 km/h, with the fierce headwind.  It was hard, hard riding, and some motorists including police vehicles did not make it any easier, passing sometimes with less than a metre between them and us…

This was the day’s route:

Swakopmund Windhoek

When we passed Aranos, the wind became more gentle. But it was still a hard day on the bike. We stopped at Okahandja at a Biltong factory, where we had some coffee. Biltong= the Americans call it beef jerky- wind dried raw meat. I see the old team of Top Gear did not like it.  We in some of the harshest parts of the world love it- it was a way to preserve meat in a hot climate long before we had fridges and freezers.

From Okahandja to Windhoek the road passes some really beautiful scenery. But there are some severe road works along this road, and the local motorists can be very dangerous in passing, both directions… Beware of the local drivers…

When we arrived at Windhoek, we found that we have pre-booked at an excellent venue! We stayed over for two days at Urban Camp- just check out their website! 

It was lovely. You get to pitch your tent on pavement, underneath a canvas awning.


The bathrooms are hidden behind reeds, but it is modern and very well planned. To combat Southern Africa’s electricity woes, they were also busy installing some wood fired geysers to provide hot water.

Just 500 meters away is the one must see tourism destination for people like us. Called Joe’s Beerhouse, it is one of the largest restaurants I have ever seen. It has a very laid back ambience, with lots of different little corners so that groups can have their own private space.  We had a very good evening together, the food and drink, service and vibe in the place was great…


Photo Andrea

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That Oryx Schnitzel was really good!

The next morning we first went to have our bikes washed, after all the ocean fog, and the salty roads that we have travelled on the past two days…


Afterwards we all had an appointment at the Namibia Bible House. We all are part of the South African Word Riders movement, which is organized nationally by Francois. So we had a visit to the Namibian Bible Society, and a briefing about what we do when we go out on Motorbikes to visit Schools in South Africa.

IMG_0127 IMG_0128 IMG_0129After some lekker coffee and snacks with wonderful people, we went to explore Windhoek. We stopped at the German church overlooking the whole city…


Afterwards, across the road, we went to see the new Freedom Monument- Museum…


After finishing these visits, the traffic of Windhoek started to get me under. The locals are not very motorbike friendly, they will not give you a gap to enter traffic, and some aggressively try to push you away to gain space for themselves.

That evening we did experience some genuine Namibian hospitality, when Barney and his wife (He is the manager of the Namibian Bible Society and she is a local pastor), invited us to dinner. We had a beautiful evening around a BRAAI (Barbeque). Again I had some Oryx meat, which I really enjoyed. We had a good evening filled with good food, wine and laughter. And then we had to go off to bed. Little did we know… to prepare for the NEXT day.

I enjoyed Urban Camp and Joe’s Beerhouse a lot. Windhoek might be a special city, I did not feel safe in the traffic on my motorbike.

Day 9- Swakopmund and Walvisbay

Swakopmund was one of the main destinations of our motorbike trip. It was also the furthest point from home. So we decided in fhe planning stage already that we would spend an extra day here, just resting

When we woke up on Sunday morning, the whole town was covered in fog.

My wife and I decided to walk through the beautiful town of Swakopmund in the fog. One huge bonus of staying at the municipal resort- we saw a laundromat next door, and we gladly handed them our first week’s dirty laundry, to be washed, dried and picked up at six.

Afterwards we walked down to the beach, and discovered that it was really cold along the ocean. So we turned into the commercial part of town. Being Sunday, it seemed totally deserted… we found that this could not be the main tourist season, there was nobody in sight… and with the fog… quite scary! Have you ever seen the original horror movie “The Fog”? I have when I was starting high school, and was traumatized by Fog ever since… 🙂

But turning a corner in the main street, we saw a delightful sight- a small restaurant/ coffee shop, Bojo’s,  with open doors! And the smell of freshly brewed coffee just invited us in. So in we went, and first had a beautiful cup of coffee, and afterwards a most memorable breakfast. They had excellent wifi, I was really, really impressed with Bojo’s!

After this breakfast we just walked around town for hours, enjoying the sights of Swakopmund. Here are some of the scenes of our flaneur….

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Late morning it was time for the one thing you MUST do if you ever go to Swakopmund. I mean, you have not been to Swakopmund if you have not done this thing. It is a crossed item on my Bucket List since my first visit. (See Bucket List Button above, #50)

Overlooking the famous lighthouse there is Hotel Schweizer. And they have Café Anton. And when you get there, you order their Apfelstrudel. They have lots of other things, which I have not tasted, it must be good. But their Apfelstrudel- you dont get anything more delicious than that. Yes, I know, my American friends do like their Apple Pie. But… I think the Germans does this better! Don’t believe me? Go try it out then (and send me some American Apple Pie to taste…)


Is that not heaven on a plate?

After this delicious stop, the weather was clearing a bit. So we went back to get our bike. We decided to ride the Salt Road that runs behind the first ridge of dunes to Walvis Bay. This road is just gravel road, covered by salt. It is as smooth as tarmac, we could run on it at 120 km/h without any problems…. a beautiful ride in the desert!


No, not going to take photos at 120 with my wife on the back!


This road goes to Dune 7. It was also on my Bucket List (#51) years ago to climb, because you have a really hard time getting to the top.  It looks small from here, but it is one of the highest sand dunes in the world. We did not ride up to the dune because of the extremely sandy road on the other side of the rail. IMG_0077From here, we turned to drive into Walvis Bay, Namibia’s main port city. And it looked like a scary movie when we approached it. While in the desert there was no fog. But in Walvis Bay the Fog was hanging over the town menacingly. I expected eery music to start up, and zombies to start walking towards us, maybe I watched that one episode too much of Walking Dead with my kids.

I remembered Walvis Bay as a stinking industrial place from my first visit. There are a lot of fishing industry companies around here. But riding around this place, I saw I was also wrong, There are beaufiful parts of Walvis Bay, where I would live any day if given a chance. It is also known for the millions of flamingoes walking in the shallow water of the beach and estuaries.


We arrived at another deserted walkway on the other side of the harbour. And were rewarded by two dolphins playing around in the ice cold water. But very lazily, just like us…

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This turned out to be one of the best days of my life. Being with ,my wife, just the two of us exploring new places on our bike.  It is so good to share these experiences with your loved one…


Swakopmund will always be one of our very special places in life!

And that evening we had a wonderful barbeque (BRAAI!) with all our friends… THAT was the picture we had in our minds when we started planning this trip. And it all came together that Sunday in Swakopmund/ Walvisbay. It must be a very special place, that is why Mrs Brad Pitt, Jolly Angelina, picked Long Beach to bring her twins into the world- halfway between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay…   What a day…

Day 8- Going to Swakopmund!

As I scroll through my blog this week, I come under the impression how much of this tour I have missed, being ill for 5 days. I have pictured sitting with my friends around the camp fire under the African winter skies. And I have missed it, being so weak and going to bed every night just after dinner…

Well, on this day finally the bad part ended. I felt good again! And we had a wonderful day on the bike ahead of us. On this day we experienced Namibia- from the grassy plains around Otjivarongo, to the Karoo style semi- desert, to the full desert of the Namib where you just see sand… and finally the Atlantic Ocean in all her splendor.

Otjiwarongo Swakop

It was so good waking up, and not having any hickups anymore! And to actually feel hungry again felt so good!

Our first stretch of the day was to Omaruru. And this is a town not to miss if you ever visit Namibia. It won awards as Town of the Year on our Southern Africa television networks.  We stopped at a delightful coffeeshop, that finally had world class food and service! (Or was it just me feeling so much better?)  I can’t remember the place’s name, if you recognize it please comment below!.

IMG_0030Their apple pie and coffee was heavenly! Afterwards we departed to some more excellent driving- and some spectacular landscapes, like near Karibib…


The land was getting harsher, dryer, hotter… Till we reached the proper Namib Desert… where we took time off to just pull over, and reflect, and BE…

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It was really hot on this stretch of road. Then, about 20 km from the sea, the temperature started dropping to cool. We arrived at Swakopmund. After so long time sleeping in tents we opted for a bit more shelter. We went to the Swakopmund Municipal Resort, where we got a small chalet to share.

Photo:  Francois

Photo: Francois

Just Richard and Elaine, being more adventurous, opted to go camping at Mile 4 just south of Swakopmund, they pitched their tents on the beach.

After removing our luggage, we went to explore Swakopmund. I was here once before, and it was my wife’s first time. For me it is the most special place in Namibia. It is a beautiful town, influenced by the German architecture when it was still Germany’s only colony.  And it is at the Atlantic Coast. For me, living 800 km from the nearest beach, it is always special to see the sea…

It was also very, very cold in Swakopmund. Remember that this is our Southern Hemisphere winter holiday, and the Atlantic is also very, very cold around here, We had a freezing walk along the beach, and then found some hot chocolate at the museum when the sun started setting…

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When the sun has set, we went together for supper at the Tug restaurant. It was upmarket, pricey, but absolutely worth it! It is on the beach, it is beautiful, and the food was great. I had the beerbattered hake- and it was so good! (Maybe I just felt really, really better finally…)

Photo Andrea

Francois in front of the Tug Restaurant- Swakopmund.    Photo Andrea

But of the wonderful times in Swakopmund I will tell in the next post…

Days like these make travel all we expect it to be- new horizons, new landscapes, new experiences and absolute joy at being alive, healthy and blessed.

Day 7- Otjivarongo

The Rider

Rundu Otjivarongo

I grew up in an era where South Africa still fought an unpopular war in Namibia. Since I was very small we heard the names of Army bases in old South West Africa, where “our boys” were fighting the “communists”.  I am not going to be drawn into the politics of that time or war.  My only point is: I have heard of these places since very small, places where some of my age men have fought and died.

On this day one of our first stops was in Grootfontein. That is the sight where one of the main Airforce Bases were, where the troups who flew up to the war zone arrived. The place holds a lot of memories for my age and older South African men, of arriving, or of seeing friends leave in body bags.


South Africa left here in 1989, and we were still not welcome…

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Day 7- Otjivarongo

Rundu Otjivarongo

I grew up in an era where South Africa still fought an unpopular war in Namibia. Since I was very small we heard the names of Army bases in old South West Africa, where “our boys” were fighting the “communists”.  I am not going to be drawn into the politics of that time or war.  My only point is: I have heard of these places since very small, places where some of my age men have fought and died.

On this day one of our first stops was in Grootfontein. That is the sight where one of the main Airforce Bases were, where the troups who flew up to the war zone arrived. The place holds a lot of memories for my age and older South African men, of arriving, or of seeing friends leave in body bags.


South Africa left here in 1989, and we were still not welcome at the airfield, we were escorted out of the place till we reached the main road.

We put together a quick lunch from a supermarket in the brand new mall in Grootfontein. And then we hit the road to Otavi. It is a beautiful ride to Otavi, passing a beautiful range of hills. It is also the sight of some mining activity.  Otavi was a base for mechanized infantry in the war, and is now just a sleepy little town. It was Friday, Payday at the end of the month.


Photo Andrea- Otavi Peak Hour traffic on Payday

From Otavi we headed to the beautiful town of Otjivarongo. Before the tour our leader spoke to the young pastor of the local Dutch Reformed Church. She said the camping resort in town was not too bad… So we headed to the Acacia Resort in town. It was affordable, but that was about it.  There was at first no hot water, and some broken taps in the bathrooms. The owner blamed a tour group from Gauteng for the state of the place… but it looked a bit more neglected than that.

Photo Andrea Richard and Elaine are Cat Magnets

Photo Andrea
Richard and Elaine are Cat Magnets

The Camping site is just plain sandy, and far from the bathrooms. Hot water was at first not available, and after fixing just scalding hot. On the other side of the Resort’s Pub there is a Charismatic church, that with a loud sound system had a battle with the devil till midnight. And on the other side of the resort the devil was answering from a nightclub, cashing in all the paychecks of Otjivarongo, and belting out hard music till about 5 o Clock the morning.

So yes, the Acacia CAmpsite is also not our best memory of the tour. But the town itself was not bad. They also have a very nice Wimpy with wifi available.

On tours like this we don’t see elephants and beautiful trees every day. Some days are hard, some camp sites are really bad. But we need these days too to reach some excellent destinations, just like in life itself. We just had to go through days like these…  And it is part of the story, and good memories afterwards.  You will just see- I took very few photos in these stretches, just not that much to see then. But from Day 8… keep on watching this space!

PS- I only now started realizing most people in the civilized world will have no clue to where in the world we are.

So just to bring you up to speed- I live in Nylstroom, which is 130 km North of Pretoria, South Africa’s capital.

The first three days took us from Nylstroom up to Kasane in Botswana:

Nylstroom Kasane

From Kasane we took the Caprivi Strip to Rundu:

Kasane to Rundu

And now you will be able to find the places we talk about, I hope…

Day 6- Rundu

Of this day I have taken nearly no photos. Except the morning when we spent some time just sitting and enjoying the splendor of the view of Popa Falls….


We just needed some time to regroup after Johan’s fall. Johan and his wife was picked up early that morning by one of the notorious minibus taxis of Africa, just before sunrise. They brought along a trailer, and so Johan and Magda went onwards to Rundu, where they were dropped off at an engineering works, that fixed Johan’s bike that day. There were no such bolt available in the whole of Namibia, that was confirmed by the BMW dealers in Windhoek. So the people at the engineering works just made one out of high tensile steel.  African ingenuity!

Meanwhile, the rest of us just packed up, and at a very leasurely pace started to find our own way to Rundu, just 2 hours away. I have thankfully stopped vomiting by then. But then the next calamity struck- I had another 2 days of hickups laying ahead, a reflux reaction after all the vomiting. It was not that good riding my bike, fighting a hickup every 5 seconds.

The road in the Caprivi strip is straight, and level…  It is also very dry, and can get hot, even in winter…


Photo Andrea

Photo Andrea

We arrived at Rundu, and after eating very little the past few days, I needed energy. We were happy to find a Wimpy at the Engen garage (filling station for you US friends…) And I had a beautiful doublethick milkshake. But the hickups just continued… so I went to find a pharmacy, and got some industrial strength medicine.

We camped at Ngandu Safari Lodge, which charged us about Nam$ 100 pp.


Photo Andrea

The wonderful news was that just after sunset Johan and Magda rejoined us, their bike fixed and ready for the next of the road.  I again went to bed very early, feeling drained after the past three days of being ill. But I do remember that Elaine has cooked us some beautiful pork chops for dinner.

Rundu is a large town with about 65 000 inhabitants- the capital of this Kavango region of Namibia. There are at least 3 pharmacies in the main road, one at a three story medical centre. They also have some excellent shopping, with a brand new mall with Shoprite as the anchor tenant still being built.

Camping at Ngandu was safe and on grass, there was just a hot water problem in the ablution blocks. I did manage a hot shower at the other side of the camping site, a small trickle of water at that shower. If the hot water problems can be fixed, this lodge will be good enough for most travellers not looking for luxury but affordability.

PS- The Caprivi strip ride map- from Kasane to Rundu:

Kasane to Rundu